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Capilene vs Merino: Fabric Specs, Performance, and Which Base Layer Wins

By FabricData Research Team Published: Updated:

Capilene® (Patagonia trademark) is the brand’s base-layer fabric line — most products are 100% polyester (increasingly recycled rPET), with two exceptions blending 51-65% merino wool. Capilene polyester absorbs only about 0.4% of its weight in moisture (vs 13-18% standard regain for merino under ASTM D2654-style conditions) and dries faster, while merino retains less odor and stays warmer when wet due to heat of sorption — about 113 J/g of energy released by wool absorbing water vapor versus about 3.35 J/g for polyester (Robinson 1977 in Textilveredlung). For high-output dry activity, Capilene wins on drying and weight; for multi-day, wet, or cold conditions, merino wins. Capilene is still plastic in fiber chemistry: microfiber shedding per wash, 200+ year biodegradation (see Environmental footprint).

The Capilene line includes seven distinct products with different compositions and weights, so “Capilene” is not a single fabric — the disambiguation table below is the starting point. For polyester vs natural-fiber breathability outside the base-layer context, see polyester vs cotton; for the polyester odor mechanism in detail, see the polyester smell analysis.

What is Capilene? The Patagonia base-layer line

Capilene is a Patagonia-owned trademark applied to base-layer garments since 1985, originally a Milliken-etched polyester fabric (the etched surface improves capillary wicking) and now a range of polyester and polyester-merino blends. Consumer comparisons treat “Capilene” as a synonym for “polyester base layer,” which is partly accurate but conceals seven different fabric specifications. Most of the line is polyester treated with hydrophilic finishes (US Patents 4,371,485 and 5,178,945). Two exceptions break the polyester-only pattern: Capilene Cool Merino and Capilene Air, both wool-rich blends.

The Capilene product family

ProductCompositionFabric weightKnitTreatmentUse case
Capilene Cool Lightweight52-100% recycled polyester~78 g/m² (~2.3 oz/yd²)Double knit micro-gridHeiQ Mint odor finishHot weather, high output
Capilene Cool Daily100% poly jersey (50-100% recycled)~126 g/m² (3.7 oz/yd²)Smooth jerseyHeiQ MintEveryday hiking, layering
Capilene Midweight100% recycled polyester147 g/m² (4.3 oz)Diamond grid double knitHeiQ Mint odor finishThree-season
Capilene Thermal Weight92% recycled polyester / 8% spandex (Polartec Power Grid)129 g/m² (3.8 oz)Grid fleeceHeiQ PureCold weather
Capilene Cool Merino65% RWS merino / 35% recycled poly139 g/m² (4.9 oz)Lightweight knitNone (wool natural)Multi-day, high-output
Capilene Air51% merino / 49% recycled poly~165 g/m² (estimate)Seamless 3D “exploded yarn” knit, ~18.5 μm yarnNone (wool natural)Cold-weather versatility

The four pure-polyester Capilene products span approximately 78-147 g/m² (about 2.3-4.3 oz). The two merino-blend products use Responsible Wool Standard certified wool. All current polyester SKUs use partial or full recycled content.

How Capilene polyester is treated for wicking

Untreated polyester wicks slowly because the fiber surface is hydrophobic. Patagonia applies hydrophilic finishes that lower the water-yarn contact angle so capillary action can move sweat outward. The treatment is topical and washes out — independent testing shows wicking finishes typically maintain effectiveness for 20-50 wash cycles before reverting. Patagonia does not publish wash-cycle durability data for Capilene’s wicking or odor finishes (HeiQ Pure silver-based, HeiQ Mint mint-oil-derived). The underlying fiber remains PET — still plastic (microfiber shedding per wash, 200+ year biodegradation).

What is merino wool? Fiber definition and micron tiers

Merino wool is the keratin protein fiber from Merino sheep (produced primarily in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and Patagonia). Each fiber carries overlapping cuticle scales (about 0.4 μm in scale height) and a hygroscopic core that absorbs water vapor into the fiber structure, not just the surface. The defining variable for next-to-skin wool comfort is fiber diameter in micrometers (μm). The Australian Wool Innovation grading system divides merino into:

GradeFiber diameterTypical end use
Ultrafine<16.9 μmPremium suiting fabric
Superfine17.0-18.9 μmPremium next-to-skin baselayers
Fine19.6-22.9 μmStandard baselayers, mid-layers
Medium23.0-24.9 μmOuterwear, knitwear
Strong25.0+ μmHeavy outerwear, carpets

Most performance baselayers use 17.5-18.5 μm fibers to stay below the prickle threshold (Naylor & Phillips 1997, Textile Research Journal 67(5)). Capilene Air’s 18.5 μm yarn sits at the upper edge of “superfine.”

Why fiber diameter (μm) determines whether merino itches

The “wool itches” perception is a property of fiber tip stiffness, not of wool. Naylor and Phillips (1997) measured prickle and identified a threshold at approximately 22 μm: below this diameter the tip bends when it contacts skin; above it the tip indents pain receptors. Merino baselayers (17-19 μm) feel comfortable; traditional shetland sweaters (28-32 μm) do not. Lambswool from non-merino breeds typically falls 23-30 μm; alpaca is roughly 18-25 μm; cashmere is below 19 μm by FTC definition (16 CFR Part 300).

How merino is processed for base layers

Processing runs from shearing through scouring (lanolin removal), carding, worsted combing, spinning, and circular knitting at 16-gauge or finer. The Responsible Wool Standard certifies non-mulesing welfare practices (mulesing — surgical removal of skin folds to prevent flystrike — is banned in New Zealand and phased out in Australia). Patagonia uses RWS-certified merino in Capilene Cool Merino; ZQ Merino and Woolmark are alternatives. Patagonia does not apply antimicrobial treatments to its merino blends — keratin’s natural VOC binding provides odor control without added chemistry.

Capilene vs merino: head-to-head specs

The table below compares 100% polyester Capilene (Cool Lightweight, Cool Daily, Midweight, Thermal Weight) against pure-merino baselayers (Icebreaker 175/200 at 100% merino; Smartwool 150 uses an 87% merino / 13% nylon Core Spun construction) on measurable properties. Where standardized test data is missing for matched-weight comparisons, the row notes the gap rather than substituting estimates.

PropertyCapilene (polyester)100% Merino woolSource
PolymerPET (polyethylene terephthalate)Keratin (protein)Standard fiber chemistry
Fiber diameter~10-14 μm equivalent (0.5-1.0 denier)17-22 μm (next-to-skin grade)Industry yarn standards
Standard moisture regain (65% RH, 20°C)0.4%13-18%Morton & Hearle 2008 / ASTM D2654
Saturation moisture (max % held while feeling dry)<7%up to 30-35%Robinson 1977
Heat of sorption (J/g water absorbed)~3.35~113Robinson 1977 in Textilveredlung
Thermal conductivity (W/mK, dry)~0.038-0.041~0.039Textile engineering reference
Drying rate (relative)Faster (no AATCC 199 matched-weight Capilene-vs-merino test publicly available)SlowerIndustry consensus; “50% faster” claim uncited
Pilling resistanceVariable by knit; recycled poly diamond grid resists wellLower at lightweight (<150 g/m²)ASTM D3512 (no public Capilene data)
Abrasion resistance (Martindale cycles)Typically 30,000+ at ~150 g/m²Typically 10,000-20,000 at ~150 g/m²ISO 12947 (generalized — specific product data varies)
Odor retentionHigher; mitigated with HeiQ silver-based or mint-oil treatmentsLower; keratin binds VOCs without treatmentMcQueen et al. 2007 Textile Research Journal
Ignition / burn behaviorMelts at ~250°C, drips and adheresIgnites at ~570-600°C, self-extinguishingBS 5852 / ISO 12952
UPF rating (typical baselayer weight)15-30 (varies with weave density)20-50REI Expert Advice
BiodegradableNo (recycled or virgin PET still polymer)Yes (~3-4 months in soil for fine merino)Wool industry biodegradation tests
Microplastic shedding per 6 kg wash load~700,000 fibers (acrylic/polyester aggregate)Negligible (natural protein fiber)Napper & Thompson 2016 Marine Pollution Bulletin
Typical retail price (US, baselayer)$39-$169 (Capilene line; Capilene Air at top end)$85-$130 (Icebreaker 175/200, Smartwool 250)Brand websites

Moisture regain (0.4% vs 13-18%) drives every other behavioral difference — drying speed, wet warmth, odor binding, and the wet-vs-dry comfort crossover.

Moisture management: capillary transport vs hygroscopic absorption

Polyester and merino move sweat away from skin by fundamentally different physical mechanisms.

Why polyester dries faster: the 0.4% regain story

Polyester is hydrophobic. The PET polymer chain has no polar groups to hydrogen-bond with water, so absorption into the fiber interior is negligible — about 0.4% of fiber weight at 65% RH, 20°C (Morton & Hearle 2008). Liquid sweat moves along the fiber surface and inter-yarn capillaries by capillary action; hydrophilic finishes accelerate this surface transport. Because the fiber itself never holds significant moisture, the load reaches the outside of the garment where it evaporates. AATCC 195 (Liquid Moisture Management Properties) measures this with the Moisture Management Tester; Patagonia does not publish AATCC 195 data for Capilene, and independent testing of similar polyester baselayers typically scores 0.5-0.8 on the One-Way Transport Index (1.0 = perfect outside transport).

Why merino feels warmer when getting wet: heat of sorption

Merino is hygroscopic. Keratin’s polar amino acid side chains hydrogen-bond with water; the fiber interior absorbs water vapor up to about 13-18% of dry weight at standard conditions and up to 30-35% before feeling wet. This vapor absorption is exothermic — bonds form, releasing energy (Robinson 1977 in Textilveredlung: ~113 J/g for wool vs ~3.35 J/g for polyester, a 34x advantage). When a wool base layer saturates during a rainstorm or sweat episode, the released energy warms the garment, partially offsetting evaporative cooling. Polyester does not do this — evaporative cooling is unopposed. This is why merino feels warm when getting wet and polyester feels cold. Zero top-ranking pages for “capilene vs merino” mention heat of sorption.

Warmth and thermal performance

Dry warmth in baselayers is primarily a function of trapped air in the knit structure, not the fiber polymer. Wool and polyester have nearly identical thermal conductivities — roughly 0.039 W/mK for wool and 0.038-0.041 W/mK for polyester — so a 240 g/m² Capilene Thermal Weight (Polartec® Power Grid) and a 240 g/m² merino baselayer provide similar dry warmth. Polartec® Power Grid uses raised polyester loops that lift the fabric off the skin, creating a thin air boundary layer; equivalent merino constructions (waffle knits, grid knits) achieve comparable dry insulation.

Wet warmth is where divergence appears (heat of sorption mechanism, above). For repeated wet-dry cycles in cool conditions — multi-day backpacking in shoulder seasons, ski touring with rest stops, alpine climbing — merino’s wet warmth compounds. For continuous high sweat output in dry warm conditions — running, cycling, hot-weather hiking — polyester’s faster drying matters more than absent sorption warmth.

Odor: why polyester retains it and merino does not (much)

Body odor is produced when skin bacteria (primarily Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus) metabolize sebum and apocrine sweat, releasing volatile organic compounds — short-chain fatty acids (isovaleric, 3-methylbutanoic) and sulfur compounds. The fiber that contacts sweaty skin determines how much of those VOCs adsorb and how persistently they bind.

McQueen et al. (2007) in Textile Research Journal (volume 77, issue 7, pages 449-456) measured odor intensity in apparel fabrics after controlled wear and laundering. Wool consistently scored lower than polyester, cotton, and nylon. The mechanism is twofold:

  • Polyester is oleophilic — the PET surface binds oily compounds including sebum and lipophilic VOCs. Bound compounds resist removal at the low wash temperatures (30°C / 86°F) common for athletic wear.
  • Wool keratin chemically binds VOCs through amino acid side chains (cysteine, methionine for sulfur compounds; basic residues for short-chain acids), then releases them as the wool dries. Wool also maintains a slightly acidic surface pH that suppresses bacterial proliferation.

This is why polyester baselayers stink after one to two days of wear and merino tolerates four to seven days.

HeiQ Fresh, Polygiene, and treatment durability

Patagonia treats most current Capilene SKUs with HeiQ Pure (silver-based) or HeiQ Mint (mint-oil-derived); competitor brands use Polygiene (silver chloride). These suppress bacterial growth on the surface but do not eliminate the bound-VOC mechanism. Independent textile-care research has shown silver-based finishes lose 50-90% of efficacy after 30-50 wash cycles. Treated polyester then reverts toward untreated odor performance, while untreated merino’s odor resistance is structural and does not decay with laundering (see how to wash a knit sweater for the wool-specific protocol; see the polyester smell analysis for the polyester mechanism in detail).

Durability and pilling

Synthetic baselayers are generally more abrasion-resistant than equivalent-weight merino. Standard reference values for Martindale abrasion (ISO 12947) at about 150 g/m²:

  • Recycled polyester baselayer fabric: typically 30,000+ cycles
  • 100% merino baselayer fabric: typically 10,000-20,000 cycles (lower end for ultrafine 17-18 μm wool)

These are generalized ranges from textile manufacturer datasheets — Patagonia does not publish Martindale results for Capilene specifically. The directional claim (“polyester is more durable”) is supported; magnitude depends on knit construction, yarn twist, and fiber treatment.

Pilling is a distinct failure mode — fiber ends migrating to the surface and tangling into balls. Switchback Travel’s note that “Patagonia’s Capilene series are more prone to pilling and wear” is presented without ASTM D3512 (Random Tumble Pilling Test) data and conflates the entire Capilene line, whose different knit structures (Cool Lightweight double-knit micro-grid, Midweight diamond grid double knit, Thermal Weight Polartec Power Grid) almost certainly have different pilling profiles.

Lightweight merino (under 150 g/m²) develops holes more readily than synthetic at the same weight. This is the structural basis for merino-nylon blends (Smartwool’s Merino 150 at 87/13 merino/nylon Core Spun construction) — a small percentage of nylon increases tear strength without compromising wet warmth or odor performance.

Environmental footprint

Recycled polyester (rPET) and microplastic shedding

Patagonia uses recycled polyester (rPET, typically melted from PET beverage bottles) in current Capilene products at compositions from 52% to 100%. rPET reduces virgin petroleum use and typically requires 45-85% less energy in production. The trade-off is microplastic shedding: Napper and Thompson (2016) in Marine Pollution Bulletin (volume 112, pages 39-45) measured approximately 700,000 fibers per 6 kg load from acrylic and polyester garments. De Falco et al. (2019) in Scientific Reports (article 6633) measured 124-308 mg of microfibres released per kg of synthetic fabric washed.

Recycled polyester does not solve microfiber pollution — rPET still fragments under mechanical agitation. In-wash filter bags and front-load washers with internal filtration reduce but do not eliminate shedding; the most reliable reduction is choosing natural fiber at the source. The recycled polyester analysis covers the complete rPET trade-offs.

Merino, mulesing, and the Responsible Wool Standard

Merino’s footprint includes methane from sheep, land use for grazing, and welfare concerns around mulesing. The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certifies non-mulesing supply chains; Patagonia uses RWS-certified merino in Capilene Cool Merino and Capilene Air.

Merino is biodegradable: published wool industry tests show fine merino fiber decomposes in soil within approximately 3-4 months under standard composting conditions, while polyester (recycled or virgin) persists for centuries. The difference matters for cradle-to-grave comparisons but does not address use-phase impacts (microplastic shedding for polyester, methane for merino).

Capilene Air and Capilene Cool Merino: the blend exceptions

The two merino-rich Capilene products are not “Capilene” in the same sense as the polyester products — they are hybrid baselayers combining polyester durability with merino’s wet warmth and odor performance.

PropertyCapilene Cool MerinoCapilene Air
Composition65% RWS merino / 35% recycled poly51% merino / 49% recycled poly
Fabric weight139 g/m² (4.9 oz)~165 g/m² (estimate)
KnitLightweight knit, smoothSeamless 3D “exploded yarn” knit
Yarn diameterStandard merino baselayer (~18-19 μm)~18.5 μm
Antimicrobial treatmentNone (wool natural)None (wool natural)
Use caseMulti-day high-outputCold-weather versatility
Retail price$89-$99$129-$169

Capilene Cool Merino (65/35) competes most directly with Smartwool 150 and Icebreaker 150 at 139 g/m². Capilene Air uses a seamless 3D “exploded yarn” knit — a chunky lofted construction that maximizes insulation per unit weight; its 18.5 μm yarn sits at the upper edge of “superfine” merino, and it competes with Icebreaker 200 and Smartwool 200-250.

Neither blend behaves like the polyester Capilene line in moisture management or odor — buyers searching “capilene vs merino” evaluating these are actually choosing between two merino blends, not between polyester and wool.

Price comparison

Retail pricing overlaps substantially.

Product classCapilene (polyester)Merino-dominant baselayers
Lightweight (<150 g/m²)Capilene Cool Lightweight $39-$49Smartwool 150 (87% merino / 13% nylon) $85-$95, Icebreaker 175 (100% merino) $90-$100
Standard (~150 g/m²)Capilene Cool Daily ~$59Smartwool 150 $95, Icebreaker 200 $95-$110
Midweight (~180 g/m²)Capilene Midweight $89-$99Icebreaker 200 long-sleeve $100-$120
Heavyweight (~240 g/m²)Capilene Thermal Weight $99-$115Smartwool 250 $115-$130
Merino blend (~140 g/m²)Capilene Cool Merino $89-$99n/a
Merino blend (~165 g/m²)Capilene Air $129-$169n/a

The cheapest entry point is pure polyester (Capilene Cool Lightweight ~$45 vs Smartwool 150 ~$95 — about half price for similar weight). At the heavyweight end, prices converge: Capilene Thermal Weight at $99-$115 sits near Smartwool 250 at $115-$130. Pure merino does not compete on price below $85; the merino blends sit mid-range of pure-merino pricing.

Use-case decision matrix

For 8h+ skin-contact applications (multi-day base-layer wear, sleeping layer, multi-night camp use), merino is the FabricData baseline. The matrix below shows where data favors Capilene polyester for shorter-duration high-output cases. Engineered polyester for skin-contact sport is a conscious athletic choice — still plastic (microfiber shedding per wash, 200+ year biodegradation).

Use caseMaterial favored by dataReason (with measurable backing)
High-output, dry-weather (running, cycling, climbing in mild conditions)Polyester (Capilene) — still plasticFaster vapor transport at 0.4% regain; faster drying after sweat episodes
Multi-day backpackingMerino or merino blendKeratin VOC binding maintains low odor without antimicrobial decay
Wet/cold conditionsMerinoHeat of sorption ~34x polyester (113 vs 3.35 J/g); stays warm during wet-dry cycles
Sub-freezing high-outputCapilene Air or Capilene Thermal (49-92% polyester)Capilene Air’s 51/49 blend balances wet warmth and durability; Thermal Weight’s Polartec grid maximizes loft
Sleeping (camp layer)Merino preferred (8h+ skin contact per §1.1)Merino’s keratin VOC binding and absence of microfiber shedding favor naturals; Capilene Cool Lightweight wins pack-weight (~2.3 oz) only if naturals unavailable
Sensitive skin / itch concernMerino at <19 μmBelow 22 μm prickle threshold (Naylor 1992, Textile Research Journal)
Budget constraintCapilene Cool Lightweight $45 (still plastic)Pure merino does not compete below ~$85 retail; for 8h+ skin contact, merino remains the FabricData baseline where budget allows
Around-fire activity (camp, woodstoves)MerinoSelf-extinguishing at ~570-600°C; polyester melts at ~250°C and adheres to skin

Every entry traces to a measurable property in the head-to-head specs section.

Common myths and unsourced claims about Capilene vs merino

“Merino is naturally antibacterial / hypoallergenic.” Closer to “merino keratin reduces VOC retention and slows bacterial growth.” Wool is mildly bacteriostatic at best, not biocidal. The FDA has no formal definition of “hypoallergenic” for textiles.

“Capilene wicks better than merino.” Partially accurate — polyester does move surface liquid faster by capillary action — but conceals that merino absorbs moisture vapor into the fiber before wicking occurs. The empirical experience that merino feels comfortable longer in damp conditions reflects the absorption stage.

“Capilene = synthetic.” Wrong since Patagonia introduced Capilene Cool Merino (65% wool) and Capilene Air (51% wool).

“Merino is fire-resistant / self-extinguishing.” True and citable. Wool ignites at approximately 570-600°C and self-extinguishes when the flame source is removed (BS 5852 / ISO 12952; the reason wool is used in airline carpeting and theater curtains). Polyester melts at approximately 250°C and the molten polymer adheres to skin. This matters around campfires, woodstoves, and welding sparks.

Sources

Standards:

  • ASTM D2654 — Standard Test Methods for Moisture in Textiles. astm.org/d2654-22
  • ASTM D3512/D3512M — Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester. astm.org
  • AATCC TM 195 — Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics. aatcc.org
  • AATCC TM 199 — Drying Time of Textiles. aatcc.org
  • ISO 12947 — Textiles. Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method. iso.org/standard/61058
  • ISO 11092:2014 — Textiles. Measurement of thermal and water-vapour resistance under steady-state conditions (sweating guarded-hotplate test). iso.org/standard/65962
  • ISO 12952-1:2010 — Textiles. Assessment of the ignitability of bedding items. iso.org/standard/46259
  • BS 5852:2006 — Methods of test for assessment of the ignitability of upholstered seating by smouldering and flaming ignition sources (BSI, textual).
  • US FTC Wool Products Labeling Act, 16 CFR Part 300 — fiber identification rules. ecfr.gov/title-16/part-300
  • US Patent 4,371,485 — Process for making hydrophilic polyester fiber (Akzona Inc., 1983). patents.google.com/patent/US4371485
  • US Patent 5,178,945 — Polyester fiber having durable water absorbent property (Kuraray Co., 1993). patents.google.com/patent/US5178945

Peer-reviewed studies:

  • McQueen, R.H., Laing, R.M., Brooks, H.J.L., Niven, B.E. (2007) — “Odor Intensity in Apparel Fabrics and the Link with Bacterial Populations.” Textile Research Journal 77(7), 449-456. DOI: 10.1177/0040517507074816
  • Napper, I.E. & Thompson, R.C. (2016) — “Release of synthetic microplastic plastic fibres from domestic washing machines: Effects of fabric type and washing conditions.” Marine Pollution Bulletin 112, 39-45. DOI: 10.1016/j.marpolbul.2016.09.025
  • De Falco, F., Di Pace, E., Cocca, M., Avella, M. (2019) — “The contribution of washing processes of synthetic clothes to microplastic pollution.” Scientific Reports 9, 6633. DOI: 10.1038/s41598-019-43023-x
  • Naylor, G.R.S. & Phillips, D.G. (1997) — “Fabric-Evoked Prickle in Worsted Spun Single Jersey Fabrics, Part II: The Role of Fiber Length, Yarn Count, and Fabric Cover Factor.” Textile Research Journal 67(5), 354-359. DOI: 10.1177/004051759706700508
  • Naylor, G.R.S., Veitch, C.J., Mayfield, R.J., Kettlewell, R. (1992) — “Fabric-Evoked Prickle.” Textile Research Journal 62(8). DOI: 10.1177/004051759206200809
  • Robinson, A. (1977) — heat of sorption wool vs polyester (~113 vs ~3.35 J/g). Textilveredlung (German textile journal, textual citation — no DOI available)

Reference books:

  • Morton, W.E. & Hearle, J.W.S. (2008) — Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, 4th ed., Woodhead Publishing in association with The Textile Institute, Cambridge (ISBN 978-1845692209)

Brands and certifications:

  • Patagonia, Inc. — Capilene base-layer line (parent brand). patagonia.com
  • Polartec, LLC — Polartec® Power Grid fabric (Capilene Thermal Weight construction). polartec.com
  • HeiQ Materials AG — HeiQ Pure (silver-based) and HeiQ Mint (mint-oil-derived) odor-control treatments. heiq.com
  • The Woolmark Company — wool certification and merino grading reference. woolmark.com
  • Textile Exchange — Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certification used in Capilene Cool Merino and Capilene Air. textileexchange.org
  • Smartwool — merino baselayer pricing reference (Merino 150 at 87% merino / 13% nylon Core Spun; Classic Thermal Merino 250 at 100% merino). smartwool.com
  • Icebreaker — pure-merino baselayer pricing reference (Icebreaker 175, 200). icebreaker.com

The verification process for fiber data and brand specifications used in this article is described on the methodology page.